March 3, 2006 - Jaipur
We had breakfast at Fort Madhogarh on top of a tower rampart overlooking the town. It was a stunning sight to see the town wake up and come alive. The parakeets were everywhere and they looked like green neon flying through the air. The peacocks were also very active that morning with their soulful cries – like cat meows.
Vehicles came to get us at 9 a.m. for the trip to Jaipur, which was about an hour away. Along the way we saw tons of camels being used as transport, and we also started to see brightly painted elephants as well. Upon entering Jaipur, we came upon a massive traffic jam – intersection gridlock – and it took about 20 minutes to maneuver through. While I had been in several of these situations before in India, this particular one freaked me out because we were trapped between a large truck and a tractor pulling a cart. There literally were only inches between my vehicle and them, and I started to feel claustrophobic. Finally, the gridlock was broken and we were able to move again.
Vehicles came to get us at 9 a.m. for the trip to Jaipur, which was about an hour away. Along the way we saw tons of camels being used as transport, and we also started to see brightly painted elephants as well. Upon entering Jaipur, we came upon a massive traffic jam – intersection gridlock – and it took about 20 minutes to maneuver through. While I had been in several of these situations before in India, this particular one freaked me out because we were trapped between a large truck and a tractor pulling a cart. There literally were only inches between my vehicle and them, and I started to feel claustrophobic. Finally, the gridlock was broken and we were able to move again.
Camel Transport in Jaipur Video
This video depicts exactly what it was like on the roads to Jaipur.
Entering Jaipur
We knew we were in Jaipur proper when we passed through a large pink gate. The main part of the city was enclosed within walls and was over 8 square kilometers. The streets were lined with an unbroken wall ornately carved with shops built into it. There were gates at various parts of the wall for one to leave the downtown area. Originally, everything was painted a yellowish color, but to honor the Prince of Wales’ visit in 1876, the city was painted pink, a color associated with hospitality. It has been pink ever since. When I visited, every building was, indeed, painted pink, which in reality was more of a salmon color. Hence, the nickname the “Pink City.”
Jaipur is the capital and largest city in the Indian state of Rajasthan. During the British rule in India, Jaipur was the princely capital of the state of Jaipur. Founded in 1727 by Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II, the ruler of Amber, the city today has a population of 3.2 million. Jaipur is a magnificent visual treat with its age-old forts and grand palaces built by past emporors that ruled the city standing strong as a testamonial of a bygone era.
Jaipur is the capital and largest city in the Indian state of Rajasthan. During the British rule in India, Jaipur was the princely capital of the state of Jaipur. Founded in 1727 by Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II, the ruler of Amber, the city today has a population of 3.2 million. Jaipur is a magnificent visual treat with its age-old forts and grand palaces built by past emporors that ruled the city standing strong as a testamonial of a bygone era.
Amber Fort
We visited Amber Fort Palace, about 7 miles from Jaipur, in the late morning. Built in 1592, it was a huge complex sprawled halfway up a small mountain. The structure, which is known today as "Amber Fort," was initially a palace complex within the original fort of Amber that is today known as Jaigarh Fort. Connected to Amber via fortified passages, Jaigarh Fort is located on a hill above the Amber complex, and is constructed of red sandstone and white marble. It overlooks Maotha Lake, and was reputed to be the treasure vault of the Kacchwaha rulers.
The king who lived in the fort had 230 concubines. Secret passages throughout the fort led to each concubine’s bedroom. Depending on his fancy, the king would take one of the secret passages to a concubine’s room for a little fun!
The outer appearance of the fort, being rough and craggy, was totally different from its interior. In actuality, the fort was well maintained. The interior of the fort provided a soothing and warm ambience, which was least expected from its outer appearance. The marvelous ornamentation of Amber Fort was influenced by both Hindus and Islam. Exquisite paintings of hunting scenes on the walls depicted the personality of the Rajputs, who were adventurous, revolutionary and self-indulgent.
There were many beautiful rooms in the fort palace, including a gorgeous mirrored room. The minute mirror work added to the grand appearance and royalty of the halls. The intricate carvings on the walls and ceilings were simply beautiful.
I could have spent hours exploring Amber Fort Palace, but we had to leave after only about 2 hours.
The king who lived in the fort had 230 concubines. Secret passages throughout the fort led to each concubine’s bedroom. Depending on his fancy, the king would take one of the secret passages to a concubine’s room for a little fun!
The outer appearance of the fort, being rough and craggy, was totally different from its interior. In actuality, the fort was well maintained. The interior of the fort provided a soothing and warm ambience, which was least expected from its outer appearance. The marvelous ornamentation of Amber Fort was influenced by both Hindus and Islam. Exquisite paintings of hunting scenes on the walls depicted the personality of the Rajputs, who were adventurous, revolutionary and self-indulgent.
There were many beautiful rooms in the fort palace, including a gorgeous mirrored room. The minute mirror work added to the grand appearance and royalty of the halls. The intricate carvings on the walls and ceilings were simply beautiful.
I could have spent hours exploring Amber Fort Palace, but we had to leave after only about 2 hours.
The worst part about India was the hawkers. Not far behind were the beggars. As soon as a hawker saw your white skin, he was upon you. Soon, every hawker in the place was after you to buy something. “Ten elephants. Only 100 rupees.” “Puppet for 50 rupees.” “T-shirt make nice gift.” I had learned not to make eye contact with them and instead just raised my hand to signify “STOP,” which they did, but then along came the next one.
If they were ambulatory, the beggars wouldn’t leave me alone for a moment. At Amber Fort, an old beggar woman approached and kept saying to me, “Maw.” She would not leave. She started touching my feet, and I had to walk away. Next thing I knew, she was by me again. Even when I got into my vehicle, she kept tapping my window saying, “Maw.”
My heart goes out to these beggars, especially the really old and the children. However, we were told not to give any of them even one rupee. I guess they madk enough money begging to survive, but survive to what kind of life?
If they were ambulatory, the beggars wouldn’t leave me alone for a moment. At Amber Fort, an old beggar woman approached and kept saying to me, “Maw.” She would not leave. She started touching my feet, and I had to walk away. Next thing I knew, she was by me again. Even when I got into my vehicle, she kept tapping my window saying, “Maw.”
My heart goes out to these beggars, especially the really old and the children. However, we were told not to give any of them even one rupee. I guess they madk enough money begging to survive, but survive to what kind of life?
Arya Niwas Hotel
We all checked into our hotel, Arya Niwas, which was in an old haveli palace. It was very pretty with lots of flowers and shrubbery. The hotel’s website describes it as such: “The openness of the hotel, with its lawns, gardens, courtyards and verandahs in the middle of downtown Jaipur is a soothing balm for the soul.” It was like an oasis in the desert, except we were in the city! My room, which I was sharing with LouAnn, was basic, but comfortable. The bathroom, though, was another story. It was overrun with tiny flying insects; they looked like some kind of gnats. There were dozens of them. Gross!
At 4:15 p.m., me and my traveling companions who were not sick took a walk around town; then we were going to see another Bollywood movie.
Jaipur is famous for its production of jewelry, being one of the largest producers of Indian ornaments and jewelry in India. We visited the area of the city where jewelry was sold. Shop after shop carried gorgeous bracelets, necklaces, rings, hairclips and earrings. However, the prices were shockingly high, especially for India. It was somewhat discouraging because I had been hoping to buy a few silver pieces, for which Jaipur is especially famous. Even with bargaining, the prices were still outrageous.
At 4:15 p.m., me and my traveling companions who were not sick took a walk around town; then we were going to see another Bollywood movie.
Jaipur is famous for its production of jewelry, being one of the largest producers of Indian ornaments and jewelry in India. We visited the area of the city where jewelry was sold. Shop after shop carried gorgeous bracelets, necklaces, rings, hairclips and earrings. However, the prices were shockingly high, especially for India. It was somewhat discouraging because I had been hoping to buy a few silver pieces, for which Jaipur is especially famous. Even with bargaining, the prices were still outrageous.
Hawa Mahal
Hawa Mahal in 1875 photograph.
One of the highlights of Jaipur was seeing the beautiful Hawa Mahal, or “Palace of the Winds.” The structure is dedicated to the Hindu god, Lord Krishna, and from afar it looked like the crown that often adorns Krisha’s head.
The Hawa Mahal was built in 1799 by Sawai Pratap Singh, the son of the Maharaja. Its unique 5-story exterior is akin to the honeycomb of the beehive with its 953 small windows called jharokas that were decorated with intricate lattice work. The original intention of the lattice was to allow royal ladies to observe everyday life in the street below without being seen, since they had to observe strict purdah (face cover).
Built of red and pink sandstone, the palace was situated on the main thoroughfare in the heart of Jaipur’s business centre. It formed part of the City Palace, and extended to the Zenana or women's chambers, the chambers of the harem.
The Hawa Mahal was built in 1799 by Sawai Pratap Singh, the son of the Maharaja. Its unique 5-story exterior is akin to the honeycomb of the beehive with its 953 small windows called jharokas that were decorated with intricate lattice work. The original intention of the lattice was to allow royal ladies to observe everyday life in the street below without being seen, since they had to observe strict purdah (face cover).
Built of red and pink sandstone, the palace was situated on the main thoroughfare in the heart of Jaipur’s business centre. It formed part of the City Palace, and extended to the Zenana or women's chambers, the chambers of the harem.
About half of my fellow travelers were sick – LouAnn, however, was much improved after she threw up on the way to Jaipur. James, Pete, Angela, Ben and Debbie (who was sick for the second time) were all ill. Emma had been very sick for 2 days, but seemed to be over it. Susan had PMS, so she also was not feeling a hundred percent. Just Betty, Rick, Paul and I had managed to escape the infamous Delhi Belly… so far! However, I was experiencing a very sore throat, which I was hoping was just from all the dust in the air, which was very prevalent in Rajasthan.
As it turned out, no one ended up going to the movies this particular night.
As it turned out, no one ended up going to the movies this particular night.
March 4, 2006 - Jaipur
The sore throat I was experiencing was not from the dust. On my second day in Jaipur, I ended up with a full-blown respiratory flu, complete with chills, aches and a tight chest. I was in bed all morning, but at about 1:00 p.m. I got up and took a shower in the gnat-infested bathroom. I was hoping that the shower would have made me feel better, but it didn’t really.
Those of my fellow traveling companions who were up to it went to see a Bollywood movie this evening. Still feeling awful, I stayed at the hotel and slept. I did, however, muster up enough energy to check my email and send out a few messages.
EMAIL
Date: Saturday, March 4, 2006
Subj: Hello from India
From: Janice Coyle
To: Kathleen Shilby
Hi. I was getting a little worried about you since I hadn't heard anything for two weeks. I'm relieved that you wrote me.
When are you moving back to the Towson area to finish up your masters? I thought it was April? You are still going to go to school, aren't you? Or, have you decided to go into the banking business? If so, make sure you get into a management training program so that you can work your way up the corporate ladder.
I have had the flu all day today -- fever, chills, aches, sore throat. Thank goodness I don't have any tummy illness, because everyone else in my group has had that over the past 48 hours. Obviously they ate something bad and got food poisoning. I don't know how it bypassed me, but the flu is bad enough. I am so loaded with medicine. I finally feel a little better, so I decided to check my email. Those who are no longer sick have gone to a Bollywood movie tonight. I saw one on the first half of my trip, so I don't feel like I'm missing anything. And, today was a free day -- no planned activities -- so I'm glad I was sick today and not on a travel or activity day.
I am enjoying India, but I think I am ready to come home. I am tired of Indian food, Indian music, and all of the trash everywhere. We are staying in a hotel with beautiful grounds, and my room isn't bad, but there are tiny flying insects all over the bathroom. I would be really disgusted if I wasn't so sick, but I feel so terrible that I can't be bothered with the bugs. As long as they stay in the bathroom and don't come in the bedroom.
I'm glad that Minnie and Roxie are doing well. How's Baby and Slippers? I hear that you guys had a major ice storm yesterday or today. How bad was it?
Don't try to drive to Florida for Jeremy's wedding. It is too far. You should fly. Can't you and your friend, Mary, split the cost of a hotel room? Go to expedia.com and try to find a cheap one in the area.
Well, I'm going to sign off now. I think my fever is breaking because I am sweating up a storm. I love you and can't wait to see you.
Love, Mom
Those of my fellow traveling companions who were up to it went to see a Bollywood movie this evening. Still feeling awful, I stayed at the hotel and slept. I did, however, muster up enough energy to check my email and send out a few messages.
Date: Saturday, March 4, 2006
Subj: Hello from India
From: Janice Coyle
To: Kathleen Shilby
Hi. I was getting a little worried about you since I hadn't heard anything for two weeks. I'm relieved that you wrote me.
When are you moving back to the Towson area to finish up your masters? I thought it was April? You are still going to go to school, aren't you? Or, have you decided to go into the banking business? If so, make sure you get into a management training program so that you can work your way up the corporate ladder.
I have had the flu all day today -- fever, chills, aches, sore throat. Thank goodness I don't have any tummy illness, because everyone else in my group has had that over the past 48 hours. Obviously they ate something bad and got food poisoning. I don't know how it bypassed me, but the flu is bad enough. I am so loaded with medicine. I finally feel a little better, so I decided to check my email. Those who are no longer sick have gone to a Bollywood movie tonight. I saw one on the first half of my trip, so I don't feel like I'm missing anything. And, today was a free day -- no planned activities -- so I'm glad I was sick today and not on a travel or activity day.
I am enjoying India, but I think I am ready to come home. I am tired of Indian food, Indian music, and all of the trash everywhere. We are staying in a hotel with beautiful grounds, and my room isn't bad, but there are tiny flying insects all over the bathroom. I would be really disgusted if I wasn't so sick, but I feel so terrible that I can't be bothered with the bugs. As long as they stay in the bathroom and don't come in the bedroom.
I'm glad that Minnie and Roxie are doing well. How's Baby and Slippers? I hear that you guys had a major ice storm yesterday or today. How bad was it?
Don't try to drive to Florida for Jeremy's wedding. It is too far. You should fly. Can't you and your friend, Mary, split the cost of a hotel room? Go to expedia.com and try to find a cheap one in the area.
Well, I'm going to sign off now. I think my fever is breaking because I am sweating up a storm. I love you and can't wait to see you.
Love, Mom